Afghan Fashionistas

Afghanistan hasn't always been an Islamic Republic, hasn't always been the enclave of the buqua-clad ( neither was it Taliban who initiated this.) In the 1970's women in Kabul wore mini-skirts and bouffant hairdos similar to their western counterparts. The King ordered women to remove the veil.

Most Afghan smaller airports have a section reserved for women so when the guys from American Voices and I traveled from Herat back to Kabul, I knew we we're in for the long haul (average wait time can be 5 hrs). So as not to draw attention to myself, I go sit with the women. Plus it's more fun. At first I draw as much attention from the women (western women still a curiosity in most places outside Kabul). I can usually get a conversation going if I pull out my knitting. By the time the plane finally arrived we'd all shared chicken lunch brought by three older women.

I've long appreciated Afghan women's fashion efforts in spite of the burka. From knitting I progress to requesting photos of footwear which they find curious, slightly charming and are happy to oblige. Forget unpaved muddy roads. Most women wear spike heels. If they're not in high heels , they still have some kind of flashy footwear and it doesn't stop with the shoes. The long white hand made lace fringed pants above the high heels are their version of underpants and are required (no bare legs!). Underneath the burqua there is almost always at least a sequined skirt.

My first visit to Herat I didn't notice that ALL women on the street wear hijab (the long black cloak worn by Iranians (this is only true of Herat where Iran maintains a heavy hand) though Heratis do have their own unique patterned version. Herat is way more conservative than Kabul where women are almost modern in comparison, where many only wear a scarf to cover their hair. (In other ways Herat allows more freedom, at least for western women, where Embassy women drive their own cars alone!)

Eyebrows. Khaled our main translator told me my translator, Fatemah is married when I knew for certain she is not. If you've plucked your brows it means your married! Turns out she intentionally plucked her brows so men would not harass her.